I had wanted to climb the North
ridge of Mt Regan for many years
and had just put it off over and over. I
put out the usual bait to see if there
were any takers, and Mark was willing. So
Friday afternoon we threw the bare
minimum of gear, no stove, lightweight tent w/
no fly, climbing gear (30m of 8mm rope, 4 nuts,
2 tri-cams, 2 med cams and 4-5 long runners and
a few carabiners), the clothes on our backs and we
headed out of town in 100+ degree temperature.
We got to the trail head and threw out even more gear and
headed up the trail to Sawtooth Lake. Luckily the afternoon
thunderstorms kept the sun behind the clouds and the 5 mile hike
to the campsite was very pleasant.
We were really motivated to get an alpine start (LOL), so we were
headed up the mountain at about 8:30 am. It took a few minutes
to start getting the feel of the rock as we scrambled up the lower
slabs to get to the ridge.
Mark had decided to travel and climb "old school" (boots only)
where I had opted for the modern lightweight approach (sticky
rubber 5-Tennies), we found out either way was perfect for this
route. The rock is consistently excellent and when you want a
handhold or foothold it is usually there without looking too hard.
We made our way up the ridge to the "Notch" and the rappel to
get to the upper mountain. After finding the hangers had been
removed from the 1/4" bolts left for the rap station, we rigged our
own anchor and made the plunge into the unknown. The 30 foot
rappel was quick, but without a rope, getting into the notch would
be very "interesting". The exit up the opposite wall was probably
the crux of the climb, but still very easy (5.0-5.2 at best) for about
We unroped and continued scrambling up to the summit. The
upper mountain had 5-6 very short, exposed low 5th class moves
and the rest was just fun 4th class scrambling. We had the rope,
but only used it for the rappel and short pitch out of the notch.
We were on the summit at about 11:30 with no wind and cloudless
WHAT A DAY TO BE IN THE MOUNTAINS!!!
After kicking back on the top for about a half-hour we started the
descent, and the adventure began.
Mark had climbed the SE ridge about 10 years ago and had a
vague recollection of that route, so we started down and the real
route finding began.
After dropping 100-200 vertical feet and getting cliffed out in 2
separate gullies, we finally just started heading down the East
ridge hoping we could find a cliff small enough to rappel off with
the 100 ft. of rope we had with us, well we found our way down
and 3 1/2 hours after leaving the summit we were back in camp.
After a hike out in a very steady and pleasant breeze, it was into
Stanley for a burger and fries and then home to plan for the next