Finger of Fate Route Description
Start up right or left crack/ledge systems
(5.6) for 40 feet then negotiate over
small roof (5.8) and continue in crack
system for 50 ft to large horn on left and
good belay stance.

Continue up 3-5" wide crack system for
60 ft (Doubles of large cams useful
here, or be prepared to down climb to
retrieve gear) climbing is sustained 5.8
until you get to roof. Good horn on right
just below roof and piton just over roof.
Climbing eases for next 50 ft to very
large ledge belay stance.

Continue up chimney full of large sharp
chock stones (climbing is awkward,
5.7ish, partly chockstone, partly ugly
offwidth; think long slings for pro) crawl
under huge chock stone and continue
up left chimney system to large flat
plateau / ledge.

Scramble 50-60 ft to notch beside huge
crack / offwidth (unprotectable)
below face (3rd class).

Follow either crack system on face (Left
is 1-2", Right is 3-4") or use both
(5.8), you will eventually have to commit
to right crack system, to cam
welded into crack. Next 30-35 ft is
unprotectable, exposed slab
climbing(5.5) to large ledge below
summit block.
P6:  Climb 20 ft of unprotectable face (5.6)
and then continue up to crawl under summit
block to SW (use long runners on any pro on
N of summit block to reduce rope drag). All
climbing from here to summit is exposed
and run out!! Exit onto large ledge and then
traverse East across small exposed
ledge(5.6) to stance below final move. Clip
old piton--this is your last piece of pro until
the summit anchors.
Final Move: (5.9)
GET PSYCHED!! Once you start this move
you are committed to finishing, because
reversing is very awkward. Move up East
ridge blocks to stance just below piton. On
N face of summit block is a 2 finger pocket
(R hand), small 1" sloping ledge and farther
out is a undercling pocket.  Spread Eagle,
squeeze summit block and finger pocket to
allow you to stretch to reach undercling
pocket w/ R hand (GO Time). Friction Left
hand on top of summit block and then move
right then left foot to small ledge (trust your
feet) and immediately throw left arm over top
of summit block for more friction. Release
undercling on right hand and use full
L arm as friction on top of summit block and
move right foot into undercling pocket.
Mantle both hands on to p of summit block
and step onto flat and walk 15 feet to
anchors (2 old 1/4" fixed rivets w/ hangers
and 1 modern 1/4" bolt w/ hanger).
Rappel off summit block to the west to
blocky ledge, scramble down ledge to
slings around tree. Continue w/ second
rappel into West gully to slings around large
chockstone. 3rd rappel will take you to the
talus slopes on the west side of the Finger
and then scramble back 1/4 mile to base of